Category Archives: Context is Everything

The Driver, and his Assistant

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Our guide introduced us to the driver who would be taking us on our tour of Myanmar. Then she turned to the young man in the seat next to the driver’s. ‘And this is his Assistant’.

She explained.  The majority of vehicles (including our bus) in Myanmar have the steering wheel on the right, as they are imported from Japan where people drive on the left. However, this presents something of a problem in Myanmar, where buses and cars drive on the right*, as the driver’s view of oncoming traffic is rather restricted. So, the drivers have young assistants, sitting to their left, whose role is watch out for what is coming towards them and shout a warning…

Problem solved! (I think…)

*Er, usually

Pancake Tuesday

5 March is the date of Shrove Tuesday this year. The fasting season of Lent starts the following day, so traditionally this was the day when milk, sugar, eggs and the like were used up to clear the way for 40 days of more abstemious fare. And what can you make with milk, sugar and eggs? Pancakes, of course!

And it’s not a uniquely British tradition, Pancake Day is marked in countries from the US to Ukraine and Russia.

Indeed, Travelling Frogs saw a range of options on a Moscow restaurant menu:

My mummy’s pancakes (with butter)

My mother in law’s pancakes (with sour cream)

My wife’s pancakes (with honey)

Two for the Price of One

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(Seen on a high street in Oxford, England)

Two stereotypes, that is.

Now, there have been books and papers and articles on the subject of stereotypes, how prevalent they are, how dangerous they may be, etc, etc. So maybe a better term, suggested by anthropologist Kate Fox, is “defining characteristics”. In her wonderful book “Watching the English” she writes about humour, which, she says, is the English “default mode”. We can’t even switch it off (and for the benefit of my non-English friends – I’ve tried, honest I have).

She writes about pets, too: “it is often said that we treat them like people, but this is not true. Have you seen how we treat people? It would be unthinkable to be so cold and unfriendly to an animal”. (By the way, just in case you’re wondering, she does go on to say that she is exaggerating – a bit. Now is that her English humour, or…?)

Postscript: (For information – after a mild winter so far, it has today turned icy). After finishing this post, your intrepid Travelling Frog, wrapped up in scarf and hat and warm coat, ventured out to the shops. And heard the following conversation:

Customer: “It’s so cold today”

Assistant: “Yes, isn’t it.  There’s a calculated vindictiveness about the English weather”

Customer: “There is. Perhaps we should talk about something else”

Assistant: “But we’re English! That’s what we do. We talk about the weather”

Stereotype number three?!

* an entertaining read as well as hugely informative

Happy New Year!

How did you welcome the New Year? Eating twelve grapes (one on each toll of the midnight bell) in Spain? Making as much noise as you possibly could when the clock struck 12 in France? Smashing chipped glasses or crockery against the front doors of your friends in Denmark? Letting off fireworks at the stroke of midnight in Germany? (as people do elsewhere, of course. But the Germans seem to be the most enthusiastic.) Ringing a bell 108 times at a temple in Japan? In Mexico, giving your friends and family a handful of raw lentils each to ensure good fortune?

Or maybe you decided on an early night, and woke up this morning* to greet what Travelling Frogs hope will be, for all, a joyful, healthy, and fulfilling 2019. Whether this year will take you travelling far or near, or on a personal journey,  this traditional Irish blessing says it all:

May the road rise up to meet you.

May the wind be always at your back.

May the sun shine warm upon your face;

the rains fall soft upon your fields,

and until we meet again

May God hold you in the palm of His hand.

 

*(possibly feeling more alert than the late night revellers?)

 

Honesty is the Best Policy

I thought this sign (on a toilet door) in Thailand was honest, nicely decorated too!

It reminded me, too, of some ‘closed’ signs we saw in Moscow.

There was the restaurant that was ‘closed for lunch’, and the shop that was closed ‘for technical reasons’. My all-time favourite, though was another shop, which was ‘closed for unknown reasons’

Tips about Tips

Seen recently in Bordeaux, this notice made us smile. It also made us think.
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One lesson from travelling – we learn a lot, including how much we don’t know. All those unwritten ‘rules’ around the world; what to wear, how to greet people, what time to eat etc etc. Some things you can work out – as the late great Yogi Berra said “you can observe a lot by just watching” – others are more tricky. One of the tricky ones is tipping. Have you ever wondered (we have!) should I tip or shouldn’t I? How much? Who should I tip?

Countries that appear similar in many ways can have different tipping cultures. In the Netherlands tips are expected in restaurants, in Belgium they’re not. The French, British and Americans tip the hairdresser, the Dutch and Swedish don’t. In the US tipping is almost obligatory, and amounts are higher than in Europe too. I guess we’re not the only ones who routinely research “tipping in ….” before we go.

Because there’s that worry, isn’t there, what if we get it wrong? Tipping when we shouldn’t, for example. Well, in Japan your offering might be turned down, tipping is considered rude. And although things might be changing a bit in Australia in the cities, one Australian* maintains “… many of us hate it when people tip. It is not necessary and a culture that we do NOT want in Australia”. If even if tipping is OK, though, how much is the right amount? The “accepted” sum can vary, from loose change, up to 20-25%.  Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) advises Americans travelling in Europe “…if your bucks talk at home, muzzle them on your travels” and goes on to say “believe me – tipping 15 or 20 percent in Europe is unnecessary, if not culturally ignorant”. Oh dear.

Rick’s comments hint at another aspect of the tipping dilemma, what does our tipping (or lack of) say about us? what will others think about us based on the way we tip? Or even on the way they expect us to tip? This was really brought home to me when I recently read an insightful and thought provoking post “Tipping While Black – Dismantling Stereotypes in the US and Abroad” (theblogabroad.com). Well worth reading, well worth thinking about, whatever our skin colour. And an addition to the big debates about tipping and “overtipping”, especially by travellers from richer countries in poorer places, debates about many of the big questions of our times: inequality, the world order, best ways to relieve poverty, and so on, and on…

 

*taken from TripAdvisor, 2016

 

Rhyme and Reason

Today is National Poetry Day in the United Kingdom – a celebration of the power of verse to bring people together. Thousands of events have been planned, in schools, bookshops, libraries, on trains and buses and in hospitals.

Why poetry? Well, poet Dan Celotti sums it up; poetry “offers no answers, no advice, no cures, just understanding and love and timing. Read poetry because the world is more than the facts of the world”.

And if you’re looking for an illustration of what he means, read Imtiaz Dharker’s extraordinary poem:

Front Door

Wherever I have lived, walking out of the front door every morning
means crossing over
to a foreign country.

One language inside the house, another out.
The food and clothes
and customs change.

The fingers on my hand turn into forks.

I call it adaptation
when my tongue switches
from one grammar to another, but the truth is I’m addicted now, high on the rush
of daily displacement,
speeding to a different time zone, heading into altered weather, landing as another person.

Don’t think I haven’t noticed you’re on the same trip too.

 

Reproduced on the website https://nationalpoetryday.co.uk, with kind permission of the author and Bloodaxe Books.